By Gerd Hirschmann
posted
Dec 19, 2012
There is a relatively simple definition for Super Tuscans being
wines of a certain quality from Tuscany. But this leaves a lot of
room for interpretation. Asking different people shows a variety of
different definitions, or expectations, making it a confusing
issue. Price range seems to be one factor, which grapes are used -
or not - is the other.
To begin with, Super Tuscans are technically 'IGT' wines from
Tuscany. That means 'Indicazione Geografica Tipical' or 'typical
regional wines' this in turn means they are not 'DOC' -
Denominazione di Origine Controllata (controlled designation of
origin) or 'DOCG' - Denominazione di Origine Controllata e
Garantita (controlled designation of origin guaranteed) as they do
not adhere to the strict regulations those designation require. IGT
wines can range incredibly in price and guarantee that a minimum of
85% of the grapes used in the wine are grown in the region.
To be a DOC or DOCG Chianti for example, the wine maker would
need to use a certain percentage of grapes grown in particular
areas with a regulated yield per acre. Typically this is then a
blend of at least 80% Sangiovese, with the rest Canaiolo, and/or
Colorino. But this being Italy, it's not that easy as the
definition varies for different sub-regions, such as Greve, Rufina,
Colli Senesi or 'Classico.'
Up until the '70's even white grapes such as Malvasia Bianca or
Trebbiano were allowed in Chianti. Various new regulations came
about over time with everything centering on Sangiovese, which as
of 2005 can also be the only varietal used in Chianti.
The term 'Super-Tuscan' is said to be coined by Robert Parker in
the '70's and covers wines made with different grapes or
combinations thereof. Wine makers simply wanted to have the freedom
to use different grapes and many started using French grapes such
as Cabernet, Merlot, or Syrah - grown in Tuscany! A Super Tuscan is
often the signature wine of the producer; a precious wine that
sometimes is difficult to find outside the latest vintage - or even
to get a taste of (just like Brunellos and Barolos.)
Marquis Mario Incisa della Rocchetta owner of the estate Tenuta
San Guido in Bolgheri, an area on the coast of Tuscany, produced an
artisan wine in the late '40's that broke every rule, called
Sassicaia. It was made of Cabernet Sauvignon vines imported
directly from Bordeaux and aged in French oak. Initially the wines
were peculiar, even coarse, but techniques were considerably
improved by the 60's and the wine turned out to be awesome. It
wasn't yet very well known, since the quantities produced were
minimal, until the owner of a very old winery in the Chianti
Classico region, Piero Antinori (related to the Incisa della
Rocchetta), started using the same techniques making his signature
wine from 100% Sangiovese called Tignanello, the first of its kind
in 1971.
Super Tuscans, today, are wines with an international flair,
generally flamboyant, dense and powerful, usually with heavy tannic
structures and flavors of new oak. The most expensive and best
known follow in chronological order, listing the first year of
production. To be complete it should include another 50 or so
wines, this is only to show the wide variety of grapes used:
Sassicaia by Tenuta San Guido (1968 - cab. sauv. & cab. franc);
Vigorello by San Felice (1968 - sangiovese, cab. sauv. &
merlot); Tignanello by Antinori (1971 - sangiovese & cab.
sauv); Le Pergole Torte by Montevertine (1977 - sangiovese); Solaia
by Antinori (1978 - cab. sauv, cab. franc & sangiovese);
Cepparello by Isole e Olena (1980 - sangiovese); Maestro Raro by
Felsina (1987 - cabernet sauvignon); Saffredi by Le Pupille (1987 -
cab. sauv, merlot & alicante); Romitorio by Ruffino (1990 -
colorino & merlot); Testamatta by Bibi Graetz (2000 -
sangiovese, colorino, canaiolo, moscato nero & malvasia
nera).
If you can get your hands on any of these wines, enjoy! There is
no better time than during the holidays!
